AUCKLAND (NEW ZEALAND): Times have changed, and so have tastes.
There was a time when most Westerners were known to shy away from spicy food. Today, dishes like rendang and curry have become some of their favourites — a reality clearly visible at Desa Corner, a restaurant in Central Auckland owned by two Malaysians.
It is no surprise that although the eatery is barely two years old, it has already made a name for itself and built a loyal following among both locals and members of the Malaysian diaspora.
“Those from the West aren’t like before… these days they come in already knowing what they want to order. Malaysian roti canai is number one. And they must have it with rendang or curry — that’s exactly what they’re looking for,” said Azli Musa, the co-owner of Desa Corner, in a recent interview with Bernama.
In July, this writer and photographer Zulkarnain Kamaruddin had the opportunity to visit the restaurant located along Karangahape Road, a three-way junction in the heart of Auckland’s central business district.
Behind the delectable dishes is a story of grit and hardship — the journey of Azli, originally from Simpang Renggam, Johor, who has lived here since 2007, long before Desa Corner came into being. As the old saying goes, a good seed thrown into the sea becomes an island, cast into the sky becomes a star, and flung into the forest becomes a mountain.
When asked about his decision to migrate to this southern hemisphere nation, 48-year-old Azli simply said, “Fate, encounters and sustenance are all determined by God.”
Now comfortably settled here with his family, he was willing to share the story of his life before founding Desa Corner.
“I started from the bottom. After arriving here, I worked in the hospitality industry as a regular employee. I gained experience in that field for eight years,” he shared. He later pivoted into carpentry.
“I did all kinds of work — cutting wood, building cabinets, installing walls, constructing kitchens and repairing houses — for nearly nine years. Bit by bit, I saved up because I’d always wanted to open an eatery,” he said.
That dream came true in 2018, when he opened the Dapur Johor stall at the Wellington Food Court.
But fate tested him when COVID-19 struck, forcing the stall — which had begun to gain popularity among locals — to close.
“When the lockdowns began, we couldn’t continue. That period was extremely challenging for me,” he said.
Fate later reunited him with a fellow Malaysian friend who owned his own restaurant — a chef with over 20 years of experience.
“We’ve known each other for a long time, but we lost touch. So when we met again and he suggested opening a restaurant together, I thought this was my second chance. We didn’t just pool our capital, we planned the menu and operations together,” said Azli.
As a result, in November 2023, Desa Corner officially opened its doors. For the sake of smooth operations, Azli manages the daily running of the business, including marketing, while his partner — who prefers not to be named — focuses on the kitchen.
Centred on Johor-Malay cuisine, Azli said they also serve popular dishes from other ASEAN countries such as Thailand and Indonesia, while nasi goreng and mi goreng mamak are among the bestsellers.
AMBIENCE & ATMOSPHERE
According to Azli, they strive to preserve a distinctly “Malaysian” feel in the restaurant — something visitors notice the moment they step inside. Beyond being greeted with a warm “selamat datang”, their eyes are immediately drawn to cartoon murals that evoke memories of 1990s Malaysia.
The restaurant now employs seven staff, most of them Malaysian students working part-time. Azli said creating a Malaysian atmosphere is intentional and important.
As soon as visitors walk in, they are greeted with “selamat datang”, while their eyes are naturally pulled toward murals of popular Malaysian cartoon characters from the 1990s — stirring nostalgia among overseas Malaysians missing home.
Marsya Maisarah Zainudin, 23, one of the staff at Desa Corner, said the experience of studying and working abroad has taught her the meaning of independence while allowing her to gain knowledge in the hospitality field.
“We’re trained to treat customers like family. It’s not just work — we learn about respect, service and people’s culture to give our very best,” said the Kuching-born Sarawakian, who recently completed her bachelor’s degree in biology at the University of Auckland.
We also met one of the restaurant’s regulars, 72-year-old Nancy Wrigley, who was born in Kuala Lumpur but has lived in New Zealand for more than 35 years. She said she loves not only the food but the atmosphere.
“The ambience here reminds me of home, and when I’m here I feel like I’m back in Malaysia,” said Nancy, who favours the nasi lemak served there.
A TOUCH OF NOSTALGIA THROUGH CARTOONS
Speaking about the murals, Azli said the artwork was created by his friend Fitri, who spent two months painting cartoon and animation characters such as Keluang Man, Usop Sontorian, Mat Despatch, Upin & Ipin, Didi & Friends, as well as iconic characters by renowned cartoonist Datuk Lat.
“We want customers to relive their childhood days, because these were the cartoon characters we waited to watch on TV — back when TV was our only entertainment. Even when living abroad, we must hold on to our ‘village soul’,” he said.
In addition to the murals, he ensures that traditional music and songs by ASEAN artistes — especially from Malaysia — are played as background ambience. Artistes like Datuk Seri Siti Nurhaliza fill the space with familiar melodies, accompanying diners as they enjoy favourites such as mi goreng mamak, nasi lemak or wanton soup.
WORD OF MOUTH
Despite not running any large-scale marketing campaigns, Desa Corner continues to draw customers — including celebrities and notable personalities visiting Auckland.
In fact, during the writer’s visit, well-known actress and director Erma Fatima, her sister Umi Aida, actor Bell Ngasri and actress Nora Danish were seen dining there along with a production crew filming a telemovie in New Zealand.
“We don’t have the budget for big marketing, but people still find us and come — because when they’re satisfied with the food and our service, they share it on Instagram, Facebook. That’s the most genuine form of promotion,” he said.
With a dining space that can accommodate up to 100 customers at a time, Azli has also introduced a “sharing dish” concept suitable for office functions or large groups.
“If you come in a big group, order a 10-person set menu. We lay out the food in the middle of the table so everyone can taste,” he said, adding that he strives to keep prices reasonable.
As the conversation came to an end, he shared this message for other entrepreneurs: “Courtesy matters. Customers appreciate sincere service.” – Bernama